Renowned Chef John Rivera Sedlar Creates New Dishes Infused with Honey
by David Morin, posted on 2009-11-18 15:32:11
Coming from a French background and being a food porn junky as Anthony Bourdain would call it, Sandra and I were asked recently to review some fusion Hispanic-South Western inspired dishes, soon to be introduced in the new seasonal menu of downtown hit Rivera.
I was first introduced to Rivera when I attended the L.A. Downtown Film Festival and I saw that amazing commercial about a restaurant drawing Hispanic related road signs with spices to enhance the presentation of some of their dishes.
Beside their exclusive tequila label and unique décor, I found a real food passion behind the iconic character of Chef/Owner John Rivera Sedlar. This honey-inspired menu sponsored by the National Honey Board was motivated from Chef Rivera Sedlar's last trip to Machu Picchu.
It is often said that we eat with our eyes and Rivera’s new dishes don’t disappoint. From my favorite one “The Chrostinis of Queso Cotija with Hierbabuena Pepper Berry Infused honey and Figs” to the stuffed “Spanish Piquillo Pepper”, the visual experience is impeccable.
As far as food, besides being good for your butt according to the “Honey Pepper Diet”, the Chrostinis are unquestionably the best dish I tasted at Riviera. The flavor of the figs with spearmint, fresh pepper berries and honey was simply divine. I am still questioning the value of Cotija cheese, as you can barely taste it though. According to John, it is a matter of balance which makes sense in theory but in the real world, the pepper and honey complement each other so well that there is no, to my opinion, real use for the cheese, beside talking shit.
While some of the dishes are an undeniable success, such as the chrostinis, the jicama & Tomatillo salad, or the “out of this world” blue corn Quesadillas of goat cheese and Chorizo, others such as the stuffed piquillo peppers however are more arrogance than real delight. The taste of the manchego cheese is incredibly overwhelming and even if the dish looks amazing, it was more an eye candy hype than anything else was. It is important to notice however that it is a common thread among young Chefs to add a little too much to their dish, as if they were not trusting enough the quality of their ingredients.
Definitely, to take a client out or to just enjoy a nice scenery; Rivera is a place to discover on one end, because of its audacity, and on the other hand, because of the artistic approach of its leader. Speaking with John, he confessed that he wanted to introduce “la cuisine sous-vide” which is French for "under vacuum". This method of cooking is intended to maintain the integrity of ingredients.
I could not wait to share my thoughts with you!
If you have any questions, do not hesitate to contact me.
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